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David Moyle is a chef. He is a food editor of The Saturday Paper.
Credit: Photography by Earl Carter
Octopus cooking techniques are rarely delicate. Most I have come across centred on braising. And the vision of octopuses in a cement mixer, or the common practice of bashing them on the rocks after being caught, hardly helps its profile as a delicate protein.
I started looking at octopus differently some time ago when I found out that if it is treated well and grilled on medium heat, the texture becomes enjoyable. There is a fine line between chewy and delicious, so cooking octopus is not something to approach with reckless abandon. If it is not cooked enough, it creates an unpleasant pasty texture, and if it is grilled too much it does end up a bit beyond toothsome.
The daikon-rubbing technique releases an enzyme from the radish that tenderises the octopus. I find this a more delicate approach than rock-bashing because most of the structure remains intact and the octopus retains its integrity. The blanching and drying technique is to firm up the flesh. Images abound of octopuses hanging out on clotheslines – for good reason. The skin firms up and the octopus loses any excess moisture before it is grilled, ensuring it doesn’t turn into a stew.
The pleasantly sweet and marine flavours of grilled octopus are hard to beat. Braising the octopus gives a consistent but inferior result, so be brave in your approach.
Time: 3 hours preparation + 20 minutes cooking
This article was first published in the print edition of The Saturday Paper on July 16, 2022 as "Sucker punch".
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David Moyle is a chef. He is a food editor of The Saturday Paper.
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